3298 Castle Expansion Capabilities???? I want higher walls!! Help!

[Andy R]

You could use a band saw to cut the pieces with.  You could also use a scroll saw.  A bet they make mini-bandsaws for hobbyists.

Power tools generate too much heat over the cut area, and ends up melting the plastic rather than cutting it. Hand tools move slowly and give a cleaner cut. (Just my experience.)

[BlackPearl2006]

I'll try and get more shots of the base and connecting points soon.

As far as cutting playmo, I've used a dremel before, and since Playmo is so tough it doesn't ALWAYS melt, but still can.

For precision cuts that are straight, I use a mini hand saw (like a hack saw of sorts) that you can buy in most train hobby stores.  It wil cut a very straight line with its cerated edge.  I've cut strips off of playmo victorian flooring as thin as 2mm thin.  Very accurate.  It's what I used on the battlements to accomodate the steck towers which just slide over the tops!  I'll get more pics when I can.

[playmofire]

This type of saw is ideal for cutting as it cuts flush and so there are no rough edges to sand down.  It cuts only on the backward stroke:

http://hobby.uk.com/tools/saws-screwdrivers-hammers/zona-flush-cut-saw.html

[basilsdad]

This type of saw is ideal for cutting as it cuts flush and so there are no rough edges to sand down.  It cuts only on the backward stroke:

http://hobby.uk.com/tools/saws-screwdrivers-hammers/zona-flush-cut-saw.html

Yes Gordon, this is the type that I bought on Wesley Myers recommendation and I think it does a great job!  I feel like I have more control over what I am doing and haven't cut a finger off yet!    
Joe

[BlackPearl2006]

This type of saw is ideal for cutting as it cuts flush and so there are no rough edges to sand down.  It cuts only on the backward stroke:

http://hobby.uk.com/tools/saws-screwdrivers-hammers/zona-flush-cut-saw.html

Aha, yes, that is exactly the same type of saw I use as well! 

[BlackPearl2006]

Ok so I skipped out on the expansion sets made for the 3268 (the extra doors and tower, but I DID buy two WIZARDS WORKSHOPS and used them to extend both the width and length by enough that it made the castle big enough for my likes, but not too big.  Here was the result:

(see attachments below).

Oh, and I went and bought some 2-inch thick styrofoam and carved out a "floor" ground for my castle to rest on so it would feel more complete (as oppossed to using the living room floor as its floor.)  Plus it raises the entire base of the castle by 2 inches and gives it a more solid feel. 

I was going to carve a mote around the castle, but then decided against it for space reasons (and the fact that real water would be messy).  I can always add one later.  Styrofoam nees to be painted still, but you get the general idea of the shape:

[bonniebeth]

Looking great, Atto!

[Wolf Knight]

Really great!!!

[Andy R]

You wanna put a motte around your castle, CONSIDER building a false-wall assembly to recess int the table. Then seal it (silicone, whatever; You may have to experiment a bit to figure out what will work best.)

EDIT: Here’s a diagram of how it lays out; Please keep in mind that this particular diagram wasn’t actually meant to address this sort of design so it’s a bit on the “rough” side.
Red indicates dirt, wood, or whatever you set/mount the castle itself to (you could actually build a table/false deck of PM itself), light blue indicates water (or gel, or whatever you fill your motte with).

[bonniebeth]

Gel?  What do you mean? This sounds like a good idea.