Medieval Collection - pre set pictures

[Richard]

 ... and want to retain a 3ft corridor around all sides the tabletop for access (with a couple of wheeled swivel chairs).

A corridor completely around the table is a great idea, Martin.
(Wish I would have had the space to do that in Texas and Canada.)

If you wanted to, you could put a removable partition down the middle and have a different scene on either side. In my new Playmo-Room, here in the Virgin Islands, I plan on doing this with my Playmobil/LGB train layout. Tunnels through the partition will allow the train to travel from one scene to the other. (Maybe jungle on one side and desert on the other.)

Since we both seem to have about the same amount of space, I'll be very interested in seeing what you do.

All the best,
Richard

[Richard]

Actually, Giorginetto, the "partition" idea might also work for a medieval display as well.

Castle and town on one side and forest and farms on the other. The "tunnels" could be passes in the mountains, or caves, or buildings that appear on both sides of the partition.

There seem to be lots of fun possibilities when you have the space! ... 

All the best,
Richard

[Gepetto]

Borrowing from my past life : Using similar sized tables I added locking casters to the tables so I could open a corridor down the center for play or setup then butt them back together again, tables still folded and access was very good. In Warhammer we used a series of 4' modular layout boards which allowed us to re-configure our terrain any number of ways which included mountains, shoreline, flat and forested pieces. I look forward to seeing your ideas.


Gepetto

[Rasputin]

I look forward to seeing your ideas.


Gepetto

Hi

I too am reading all the ideas and am appreciative of learning the better set up table layouts

Rasputin "The Mad Monk"

[Martin Milner]

Borrowing from my past life : Using similar sized tables I added locking casters to the tables so I could open a corridor down the center for play or setup then butt them back together again, tables still folded and access was very good. In Warhammer we used a series of 4' modular layout boards which allowed us to re-configure our terrain any number of ways which included mountains, shoreline, flat and forested pieces. I look forward to seeing your ideas.

Gepetto

A modular tile system could work well and may be necessary to allow different layouts to be be switched in and out quickly and easily. I'll start with the plain tables and a cloth on top, but tiles might also add some stability to the tables with some extra weight. I could hotglue trees, rocks, castles etc to the tiles, and store spare tiles in the cupboards. 3' x 3' wpuld be a good size for a big tile, with 1.5' x 1.5' tiles as a chanegup, so scenery can be easily adjusted.

Locking casters is an interesting idea. I haven't fixed on the tables yet, but as they'll get years of use I'm not just going for the cheapest option first.

Under my playroom den is a double garage which will be developed as a woodshop, primarily for my wife's use, but I'm sure she would help me cut plywood tiles to the required size. 

As Richard notes, once you have more space to stretch out, the possibilities multiply. We didn't choose to move to the USA just for extra space and a bigger house, but we certainly chose the house we are buying for the possibilities it offers for the two of us to have more dedicated hobby space.

[Gepetto]

I opted to go with the metal framed folding tables with the particleboard tops, they were the inexpensive ones, not too heavy but with enough heft to be stable, once they are set up they will probably stay that way but are easy enough to move around. The plastic table I found had a tendency to torque and shift too easily.


Gepetto

[Justindo]

Like Martin, I plan to have 6 6' x 3' plastic folding tables with 3' or so around all sides.  If I can finish organizing my Playmobil and cleaning out the room, I should be able to do this.

[Rasputin]

Hello

Right now I am using the metal folding legs with the heavy particle-board tops. They were the cheapest (free, a school was throwing away a bunch) . Because it was dump salvage I never took good care of them and now they are reallly heavy due to getting wet every year. They are laid out in a rectangle shape and I have a hole in the middle for people . It works great for a train layout and it is fun to watch. Seeing as this is being used for a medieval layout I would keep them in a large solid block so you can have large buildings and armies. I too have found the heavier tables are less likely to be bumped up, knocking down things. I have most everything balanced in place so a good bump is a huge earth quake. The worst is a derailment over the edge 

Rasputin "The Mad Monk"

Edited- we to were

[Martin Milner]

Good point on the stability, that's a big concern.

A front runner at the moment is a 72" x 30"' walnut top folding table from Office Depot, item 398667 on their website. I could either set them across the width of the room to give a 6' width, or in pairs to give a 5' width. The problem would be the legs, as using them across the room stops me sitting on a chair tucked under the table. Do I need to do this?

[Rasputin]

 Do I need to do this?

Hi Martin

I do not have a chair around my tables but all the leaning over in a very calm controlled manner has my back aching after a while. If I were to use a chair it would be one of those tall bar stools and not one that could slip under the edge. I like to have the vantage point up high so I can see the train going between the buildings. It would be nice to have the lower option for photographing things as you are lower down and that usually gives a better picture result.

Rasputin "The Mad Monk"