Klicky Painting for Dummies ~ (Experts Please Help Us Wannabes)

[playmofire]

If this is the plate I'm thinking of, you can now get them from DS in white from the 3179 fire fighter set or in claer plastic.

I'll come up with part numbers tomorrow.

[Psyche]

Wow, what fantastic tips and links! Yes, the part number would be nice Gordon if not too much hassle to find.

Jochen, thanks for the tip on drying and the link (I just have to find a cat free area or they will think a hanging klicky is a kitty toy.)

David, I think they do all it modeling clay here (I also have the softer kid-stuff play-doh that I use with my preschoolers, is that too soft do you think?) I guess I'm going to have to get less shy about cracking klickies...I only have done so about 5 times and always cringe when they "crunch". But it makes sense to paint the parts separately.  And thanks for the info on brushes. There is a model hobby shop in the next town over so I will have to give them a visit.

One more dumb question then, if you want to do an intricate design on an arm, do you paint the base color first, let it dry, then stick the arm back in the clay? Will that mess up the base coat?

Thanks for all the help...I'm sure lots of other novices get stumped by what seem simple things to you pros. Your advice is much appreciated.

[Little Jo]

If this is the plate I'm thinking of, you can now get them from DS in white from the 3179 fire fighter set or in claer plastic.

I'll come up with part numbers tomorrow.

Not exactly. The one you are referring to (PlaymoDB says order no. 30 23 0440) is more similiar to the klicky holder. The one I'm think of has a kind of foot print for both feets and at each of the foot prints left and right a small clip. Maybe I can provide a photo within the next days (first have to search this piece).

[Little Jo]

One more dumb question then, if you want to do an intricate design on an arm, do you paint the base color first, let it dry, then stick the arm back in the clay? Will that mess up the base coat?

Although I'm obvisously not the one asked (sorry David  ): e.g. when I'm painting an arm I wrap the hands with tape leaving a long piece lose for fixing to the cupboard (cf. above). Then I hold the arm on the taped hand and airbrush it. With the lose tape end I fix it to the cupboard for drying. After it has been dried I remove the tape from the cupboard but not from the hand. Again holding it on the taped hand for intricate painting (e.g. with a brush) and after this fixing it again with the lose end of tape to the cupboard. The tape normally can be fixed and removed several times to/from the cupboard before it does not hold anymore.

[playmofire]

You're quite right - the old ones are different.

[Sylvia]

when I'm painting an arm I wrap the hands with tape leaving a long piece lose for fixing to the cupboard (cf. above).

Never thought of using tape. Must try that tip myself!
I usually stick the loose arms into a blob of blu-tac while painting them and while they are drying, but they don't always stay put.

One thing I found handy while painting a loose torso piece (where you have no arms or legs to hold onto) was to wedge it firmly onto the handle of another model-painting brush through the neck hole of the klicky - a thicker one which tapers slightly at either end is ideal for this.  You can then turn the torso around easily without touching the newly-painted surface and you can stand it up, using the handle as a support, inside an old mug or something similar to dry. This stops the surfaces coming into contact with anything that would mess up the finish while they're still sticky. Not exactly a high-tech method, but it works for me.

[matchboxluc]

I use enamel paint too; usually humbrol or model master/testors. I also completely disassemble a figure prior to painting. I click the arms onto an old playmo-scythe; its blade and top handle pointed downwards provide a stable platform and good handling while painting. For the chest I use an old spare klicky frame+legs, for the head I use an old chest/ frame/legs combination to click it on; these are ment to be paint-smeared. On top of the legs I stick an old small brush (the legs are hollow) to act as a handhold.

[Serenity]

I 'crack' the klicky for painting, too. 

For the arms, I use a Playmo spear to secure them ... the hands klick on nice and tight, making them easy to paint. 

For the legs, I use a Q-Tip (cotton swab).  The cotton seems to hold the legs relatively still while I paint.

For the main body, I use a bit of Fimo clay on a bamboo skewer, then secure the torso on top of that.  Warning:  the enamel paint NEVER dries on the clay, so be careful when removing the playmo piece, so you don't pick up paint from the clay on your fingers.  I use another bamboo skewer through the arm holes to pull it away, just in case.

I highly recommend using a GOOD quality paint brush.  The brushes are expensive, but they're worth it.

I use enamel paint, too.  I don't think your acrylics will work as well, Psyche.  I'm used to them as well, but you're not going to get the coverage you want on the plastic without adding too much thickness.  Believe it or not, that paint thickness will get you.

[Psyche]

This is great all the clever ways people have of securing the parts during painting. I like the idea of using swords and sycthes to secure arms.

It also looks like enamel is the way to go. I'm asking for supplies for the holidays so will add some basic colors of enamel paint, some high quality brushes, clay, and maybe the light/magnifier lamp to my wish list.

This is great info! Thanks!

[Serenity]

AND, the nice part about using spears, scythes, etc. to secure the arms, is that you can then lay the spear across the top of a cup for drying.