Help with non-working RC Locos

[tahra]

I know nothing of these..

My trains have been boxed forever.. Since apparently the train stuff is on the way out, I decided to see what things I needed...

Besides finding out I have too many curved tracks and too few straight ones, of the 3 trains only one works.

I have the Nostalgie (4017 - bought new), ICE (4016 - used) and Xmas (4035 - used)...

The Xmas train brought 2 batteries, but they look like they leaked, so... Will need a replacement. I charged the other 2, and got batteries for the remotes..

Only the ICE "loco" works, though I need to push the battery in (used a rubberband) - any idea of a fix? 

All the remotes and quartz work too... But the other two locos don't do ANYTHING.  I can't even see the antenna on the Xmas one (I would assume we tried it when bought, but can't really be 100% sure  )

Any ideas?

Apparently the "rc motor block" is no longer available for purchase   Though the batteries are (needed one for the xmas train - IF it moves, no point in getting a battery if the loco is dead, right? )

Are the latest RC trains even compatible with these older ones? I mean, could the motor block be the same?

Apologies for the dumb questions... I really didn't expect the Nostalgie one to be dead, since it was bought new and nothing ever happened to it

I suppose it really doesn't matter for a dio, but I think these are the exception - I love to play with them moving.. 

[Junker Jörg]

Hai!

Hilfe ist unterwegs - help's on its way!

Nachdem die Startsets immer mehr Kurven als Gerade haben, ist das Gleisproblem nicht ungewöhnlich. Im Zweifelsfall kannst Du alle Gleise entsorgen und Dir passende von LGB oder PIKO kaufen (was recht teuer ist) oder im Netz nach Geraden suchen.
As starter sets always provide more curved than straight tracks that's a common problem. Either sell those plastic tracks an purchase LGB or PIKO tracks instead (expensive) or look for straight tracks in the www.

Wenn eine Funklok nicht fährt, kann das verschiedene Gründe haben. Prüfe der Reihe nach...
(a) Strom in der Steuerung: lege eine sicher volle Batterie ein => die Lampe muß leuchten.
(b) Richtiger Quarz: Wenn Du einen Quarzsatz hast, der sicher zueienander paßt, dann nimm den für jede Lok. Dann kannst Du diesen Fehler auch ausschließen.
(c) Stromkontakt in der Lok: Stelle sicher, daß die Batterien alle voll sind und richtigrum im Kasten liegen. Putze die Kontakte im Einschub mit einem Q-Tip (o.ä.) sauber (die verdrecken gerne) und schiebe den Kasten ganz in den Einschub.
(d) Funkkontakt? Im Nahbereich geht das Ganze auch ohne Antenne an der Lok (drei bis vier Meter sind kein Problem ohne).

There're different reasons causing an rc engine to fail. Check as listed:
(a) Power supply for remote control - insert a new battery to be sure and check for red light (< no red light = no power)
(b) Matching quartzes => take a pair of quartzes you know to be working.
(c) Power supply for engine: make sure batteries are full and put in box in correct order. Clean metal contact strips inside power slot (they're likely to be soiled) and press power pack properly into its slot.
(d) Radio contact => system works within a few meters range even without aerial.



jj:

[playmofire]

2016 or 2017, Playmobil found some motor blocks for the 4010 set and you could buy them for £34 or so. However, the price later went up to £100+.

I'm sure JJ will come up with answers for you.

[Junker Jörg]

Are the latest RC trains even compatible with these older ones? I mean, could the motor block be the same?

Playmobil hat zwei Serien der Funkoks produziert. Alle Deine Loks gehören zur "alten" Serie (zu der auch die orangene Diesellok und die rote Ellok mit den Doppeldrehgestellen gehört). Die neue, gelbe Diesellok, die Playmobil als letztes im Programm hatte, paßt weder von der Elektronik noch der Form des Motors zu den Teilen der ersten Serie.

Playmobil produced two different rc engine types. All engines you listed are "the old ones" (so are the orange diesel and red double bogie engine). The yellow shunting engine (the latest and last one issued) operates on a totally different basis. Neither electronics nor shape of motor and control match the others.

jj:

[Junker Jörg]

The Xmas train brought 2 batteries, but they look like they leaked, so... Will need a replacement. I charged the other 2, and got batteries for the remotes..

Wie genau meinst Du das? Von Playmobil gab's diese Batteriekästen in schwarz (erste Serie, wiederaufladbar) und grau (zweite Serie für vier AA-Zellen oder Akkus). Innerhalb eines grauen Kastens sollte man keine Akkus und Batterien mischen. Eigentlich sollte man immer nur gleiche Zellen in Serie hängen, da sonst schwächste Zelle die Leistung vorgibt und die anderen Zellen ausbremst.

I'm not entirely sure what your're talking about here. Playobil issued two kinds of "power boxes". The first, black ones to be recharged as one and the second, grey ones to be fit with four AA-cells or rechargable batteries. You shouldn't combine recharchable and non-recharchable batteries - and strictly spoken only batteries of one and the same kind and state of power should be used together as otherwise the weakes batterie sets the maximum power limiting down all the other, stronger ones.

jj:

P.S. If you don't understand what I'm talking about - sorry, but electrics are far from my usual English vocabulary so I'm far from sure if what I wrote represents what I intended to say... 

[Junker Jörg]

Only the ICE "loco" works, though I need to push the battery in (used a rubberband) - any idea of a fix?

Auch ein bekanntes Problem, die Haltefeder läßt mit der Zeit nach und der Akkukasten hält nicht mehr. Eine Zahnstocherspitze oder einen Streichholzspreißel neben den Kasten mit einzuschieben, hilft in der Regel.

Another well known bug. Squeeze the tip of a toothpick or a splintered match next to the power box into the slot. That should do.

jj:

[Junker Jörg]

Und zu guter Letzt: Diese Loks ziehen auch Strom, wenn sie nicht fahren. Dann sind die Batterien/Akkus schnell leer. Wenn die Lok also länger stehen soll, dann solltest Du den Akkukasten aus der Halterung ziehen.

Last but not least: Those engines tend to consume energy even while standing emptying batteries quite quickly that way even when not in use. So remove power packs whenever an engine's standing still for more than a few minutes.

jj:

[playmofire]

Wie genau meinst Du das? Von Playmobil gab's diese Batteriekästen in schwarz (erste Serie, wiederaufladbar) und grau (zweite Serie für vier AA-Zellen oder Akkus). Innerhalb eines grauen Kastens sollte man keine Akkus und Batterien mischen. Eigentlich sollte man immer nur gleiche Zellen in Serie hängen, da sonst schwächste Zelle die Leistung vorgibt und die anderen Zellen ausbremst.

I'm not entirely sure what your're talking about here. Playobil issued two kinds of "power boxes". The first, black ones to be recharged as one and the second, grey ones to be fit with four AA-cells or rechargable batteries. You shouldn't combine recharchable and non-recharchable batteries - and strictly spoken only batteries of one and the same kind and state of power should be used together as otherwise the weakes batterie sets the maximum power limiting down all the other, stronger ones.

jj:

P.S. If you don't understand what I'm talking about - sorry, but electrics are far from my usual English vocabulary so I'm far from sure if what I wrote represents what I intended to say... 

It does. 

[tahra]

Thank you

Ok, let me see if I can answer everything...

There're different reasons causing an rc engine to fail. Check as listed:
(a) Power supply for remote control - insert a new battery to be sure and check for red light (< no red light = no power)
(b) Matching quartzes => take a pair of quartzes you know to be working.
(c) Power supply for engine: make sure batteries are full and put in box in correct order. Clean metal contact strips inside power slot (they're likely to be soiled) and press power pack properly into its slot.
(d) Radio contact => system works within a few meters range even without aerial.[/color]

The remotes all  work (brand new batteries, and I tested all three of them)

All the quartz pairs also work (tested on the ICE)

I charged both "loco" batteries and tried both in the ICE - both work.

I didn't know there was no antenna needed...

But both the other locos (Xmas and Nostalgie) do nothing

However, the price later went up to £100+.

  Nope, not willing to pay that much   It is a shame they don't work, but I play with it like once in 15 years? 

Playmobil produced two different rc engine types. All engines you listed are "the old ones" (so are the orange diesel and red double bogie engine). The yellow shunting engine (the latest and last one issued) operates on a totally different basis. Neither electronics nor shape of motor and control match the others.

Ah, thanks - that leaves that option out (though it would probably be far too expensive anyways)

I'm not entirely sure what your're talking about here. Playobil issued two kinds of "power boxes". The first, black ones to be recharged as one and the second, grey ones to be fit with four AA-cells or rechargable batteries.

The loco batteries are indeed all of the "old" kind - this sort (playmodb link)..  I assume it is possible to replace the "inner battery"? Are there instructions?

If you don't understand what I'm talking about - sorry, but electrics are far from my usual English vocabulary so I'm far from sure if what I wrote represents what I intended to say...

Same here - except I know nothing of the subject, so it's even worse! But I think I understood you, thank you

Another well known bug. Squeeze the tip of a toothpick or a splintered match next to the power box into the slot. That should do.

Tried a bit of paper, didn't work - the rubber band did, for a test - but I will try a toothpick when I try something more.. "proper"

Last but not least: Those engines tend to consume energy even while standing emptying batteries quite quickly that way even when not in use. So remove power packs whenever an engine's standing still for more than a few minutes.

I knew I should remove them, but MINUTES? THAT I didn't know. Will do..


So, I know the problem is the locos, since all the rest works with the ICE "loco".. any troubleshooting guide?

[playmofire]

The first RC steam loco I bought appeared to have no aerial, but it was stuck inside the boiler.  It should stick up out of the dome Behind the funnel; there is a hole in the forward part of the top of the dome for this.  Even with the aerial stuck inside, the loco should work if all else is OK.

You know that the batteries in the grey battery case for the 4016 ICE loco work, so put these in the grey case into each of the other locos and see if they work then.  If they do, then the problem is solved. 

If the locos still do not work, with a torch look into the space where the battery holder goes.  At the end of it there should be two bright and shiny copper contacts.  If they are not bright and shiny but green or grey looking, then the problem is dirty contacts and you need to clean them.  A glass fibre pen is ideal, if not a bit of glass paper or sand paper wrapped over the end of a pen or pencil. 

Try these and then report back.