PlaymoFriends
Creative => How-To => Topic started by: Donmobil on October 28, 2007, 00:50:42
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I bought a couple of ships on ebay that were not complete. I am sure I can get the missing parts from DS.
While I was looking over my ships, I was wondering if sails from different ships would fit different ships. In the case of Blackbeards ship, the sails included in the set are furled, dose anyone know which masts and sails I could use to make this ship 'sailable'?
Donmobil
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:)well donmobil, i guess the masts and rigging form the 3750 ship would fit perfectly (same hull).
you will have to add a lot of string, metal and plastic parts.
the 4424 is the first one of a series of "simplified" ships that playmobil decided to produce - almost everything is plastic-made now (unfortunately). :'(
i wish you luck.
:)
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What ships did you buy? Then people may be able to say if they have bought spares for it recently.
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the 4424 is the first one of a series of "simplified" ships that playmobil decided to produce - almost everything is plastic-made now (unfortunately). :'( :)
I haven't bought a Blackbeard's Ship because I don't like the furled plastic sails. Sorry to hear someone at Playmobil thought this was a good idea and the rot may spread further.
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While I was looking over my ships, I was wondering if sails from different ships would fit different ships. In the case of Blackbeards ship, the sails included in the set are furled, dose anyone know which masts and sails I could use to make this ship 'sailable'?
Donmobil
I think the way of fitting the spars to the masts in Blackbeard's ship is the same as for the 3940 pirate ship; if so, then you could use parts from that.
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What ships did you buy? Then people may be able to say if they have bought spares for it recently.
I have:
1x 3053 Pirate Ship (also 3750)
3x 3286 Pirate Ship
3x 5736 Blackbeard's Pirate Ship
1x 5775 Pirates' Attack
6x 5778 Skull Pirate Ship
1x 5810 Pirate Corsair
15 TOTAL
I wonder which sail could be switched with which ship?
Donmobil
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the parts you have from the 5778 should fit. :)
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I'm thinking of replacing the various ripped sails on my ships. I don't them because they're unrealistic.
Plastic sheeting of the right thickness is one possibility, but might be rather stiff, and any sort of cloth is likely to need extra stitching to stop the edges fraying. Ultimately this would be the best option, as it would be most accurate and realistic, but it might be a bit too much work.
Has anyone found a suitable material?
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Thick interfacing is a possibility. I got your package this morning and I will put a sample in (I think I have some in the loft still) when I send you the pirate raft (hopefully this afternoon).
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Has anyone found a suitable material?
Hi Martin,
I am still looking...Went to a fabric store, but no luck. The fabric people thought that it was
a paper type product ???
I tried a plastic material, but it did not "billow" very well :(
On one of my R.C. Playmo ships I used a nylon ripstop material. I cut it with a
hot knife so it would not fray. This worked well for actual sailing. I may
try it on my 4444 ship......
Good luck, and happy sailing!
Jimbo
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It looks as if I ditched the interfacing when we were tidying out the loft. However, good sewing shops should sell it (but make sure it is the ehavy duty one). It was the heaviest available and cut without fraying. You could "seal" the edge with some stuff called "No-sew" (or some similar name) which is a dressmaker's sort of superglue. To fix the sails to the spars, you could punch holes in the material using a leather hand punch.
If you can't get hold of any, let me know and I can get you a sample at Boyes' when we next go to Northallerton.
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Thanks for looking for the interfacing Gordon, and Jimbo for the Nylon ripstop idea, that gives me two lines of enquiry.
I found some interfacing on Ebay but didn't bid - it'll be along again soon enough.
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I bought a couple of ships on ebay that were not complete. I am sure I can get the missing parts from DS.
While I was looking over my ships, I was wondering if sails from different ships would fit different ships. In the case of Blackbeards ship, the sails included in the set are furled, dose anyone know which masts and sails I could use to make this ship 'sailable'?
Donmobil
Sorry to revive an old thread yet again, but my interest in the ships remains ever constant, and I figure it's still a "classic" topic that can continue. I will address the questions I read in this thread with the knowledge I have discovered through my own Playmobil ships. Hope it helps:
BLACKBEARD’S SHIP:
(http://poptropicasecrets.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/playmobil-blackbeards-pirate-ship.png)
FYI, to those who have discounted the BlackBeard ship as rubbish (which were my initial thoughts on the ugly plastic furled sails, lack of a spanker, YELLOW ratlines, and just tacky colour scheme)-- use that to your advantage: since most people don't value the Blackbeard ship as much, she is plentiful on ebay at cheaper prices, and easily can be redeemed by being converted into a more suitable ship.
COLOUR SCHEME:
Colour-wise, though unappealing in layout, she bares the correct colour scheme for what is traditionally associated with Edward Teach's (BlackBeard) pirate ship: black, red, and yellow highlights. Even the new Pirates of the Caribbean movie (On Stranger Tides) is using this colour scheme for BlackBeard's ship:
(http://static.reelmovienews.com/images/gallery/the-queen-annes-revenge-docked-for-filming_494x317.jpg)
It is Playmobil's layout that is lacking, however, mostly due to having yellow ratlines. The 3750 has grey ratlines, which is also unrealistic (as shrouds and ratlines should be black, since they are covered in tar), but doesn't look unnatural with the ship as do the yellow ones. Her black hull, however, makes her a perfect ship to customize into a pirate ship or dark ghost ship of sorts.
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/BlackPearl2006_album/Playmobil/blackwidow.jpg)
MASTS/RIGGING
The mounting points of the masts on the hull are the same between most of the tallships. 3286 and 3750 masts are interchangeable. This includes Blackbeard’s masts.
The spars differ, however. Spars on the 3286 and the newer 3750 style ships (Skull Ship) are interchangeable and feature ball-joint attachment points for the yards. The older 3750 spars, however, feature axle-type pivots for the yards and cannot be used with the ball jointed yards of new ships. The BlackBeard ship’s masts have built-in spars that have a balljoint, so it cannot accommodate older or new style spars at all. The balljoint on the built-in spars on BlackBeard’s ship is slightly different in size compared to the ball joint system on the 3286 and new 3750 ship (Skull Ship), but, with some minor mod, can accept a ball joint yard from either ship.
PLAYMO SAILS
Sails for the classic 3750 style ship are the same size as the new Skull Ship sails, but will not fit onto the new Skull Ship (or 3286) yards without modification because the holes on the sails are aligned differently. (simply punch new holes to accommodate the new yards). 3286 Sails are larger than the 3750 style ship, but are the same (and correct width) to fit 3750 style yards. Again, the 3286 sails will fit the SkullShip’s yards without modification, but will have to be modded to fit the older 3750 style yards.
The spanker sails for the 3750 and 3286 also are not exactly the same, but can fit either ship with very minor modification (poking new holes). The main problem is that the spanker yards and the sails from the 3268 are larger than the old 3750, and have a different angle of incidence on the top yard. I fitted my Skullship with the spanker yards from a 3286 ship, but used a classic 3750 sail. The 3750 sail was a bit less wide, and because it was also different in length, I had to move the bottom spar up a little. Additionally, since the angle of the top yard is wider on the 3286 than the 3750, there is a slight billow effect on the spanker sail itself, which actually looks good (as oppossed to completely flat, as it would have been on a stock sail with matching yard). Here is a pic of the new SkullShip with classic 3750 Sails:
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/BlackPearl2006_album/Playmobil/IMAG0003.jpg)
AFTERMARKET SAILS:
My first aftermarket material I used was replacing BlackBeard’s furled sails with full sails made and cut from flexible thin 3-ring binder plastic. It worked very well.
As far as cloth sails go, I suggest a thin, lightweight synthetic material (as opposed to cotton) to minimize fraying and minimize weight gain when the sails become wet (due to rain or capsizing). To create the sails: 1) trace your pattern (or use a paper pattern) on to your fabric, 2) using some flexible cyanoacrylate hobby glue, glue some cords along the outline of the sail fabric’s shape. 3) Once the glue is dry, cut out your shape. The cords and the added stiffness of the glue will not only eliminate fraying at the edges, but it will also give it that stiff feature that real playmobil sails have along the edges to help maintain a billowed look, even when there is no wind. I’ve done this to my black pearl (using glue along the edges of the sail) and it works wonderfully. (However, I omitted the cordage and actually let the edges fray on purpose before “sealing” them with the glue, so that they would appear frayed as part of the ghost ship’s aesthetics. They won’t fray further, though, now that the glue is applied). The benefits to cloth sails is it adds realism, and they can, on option, also be furled if you rig them appropriately.
Oh, and as far as attatching cloth sails to the yards: you can poke holes at the top of the sails to accomodate the pegs in the playmo yards and snap on the covers just like stock ones, OR, as I have done, you can simply LASH the sails onto the yards, as you would a real ship. (you can use a needle and thread). The only downfall is the sails can no longer be interchanged without cutting the lashes or re-lashing, in case you decide to change your sails later, or fly different ones according to season.
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I made sails using a similar interfacing as the one Gordon talked about, but this was the iron one type of interfacing (called vilene here in the UK) I don't think it is as thick or as stiff as the non iron-on, but becomes thicker and firmer when ironed.
This is how I made them (taken from an earlier thread)
" I'm not sure if this was heavy or medium weight but it was the thickest the shop had.
I divided the material into four (without cutting it) folded over the first quarter and ironed it then folded over the next and ironed that, then finally the fourth quarter.
Together the four layers made an almost identical material to the Playmobil red corsair sails.
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac300/skypurr/sails2.jpg)
close up of the interfacing material and the Playmobil sail material
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac300/skypurr/sails.jpg)
The sails were very easy to make - I cut a pattern using the sails from the schooner.
I used a leather punch for the holes and a craft knife for the little slits at the bottom of the sails.
I did experiment with a silver pen on a spare piece of material and found that I could have put some sort of markings on the sails, but decided to leave them for now.
All in all I was quite pleased with how they turned out."
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac300/skypurr/blacksails.jpg)
The ship with the new sails sailed quite well too.
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac300/skypurr/blackcorsair5.jpg)
If anyone wants some of this material and is unable to get it, I would be happy to post it. It is only available in black and white (where I buy it). As it is quite light it would be fairly cheap to post I should think.
Elaine (http://www.anchoredbygrace.com/smileys/mgqueen.gif)
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all
this is a fascinating thread. (no pun intended). i am not a playmobil ship customizer, but i am a quilter and a backpacker. there are many types and thickness of the iron-on interfacing that you are looking for, the better quilt shops will carry them all, instead of the craft stores, which tend to just carry the less expensive and less durable stuff. iron on interfacing also comes double sided so you can iron two fabrics together back to back, it is usually called fusible web, and it comes in various stiffnesses also. blackpearl, there are two shops in the pacific northwest that are excellent resources, and will send samples at no charge. Seattle Fabrics is in the north end of seattle on aurora, and they carry a huge selection of outdoor fabrics, especially light weight ripstop nylon in a variety of colors( including dark and dreary colors, not just color crayon bright). some that are silicone impregnated are stiffer, and do not require a hot knife to prevent fraying. the other really good customer service quilt shop, is actually in portland, fabric depot. the store is the size of a giant walmart and it is filled with all sorts of sewing supplies including all of the iron-on interfacing you could imagine. they too, will send samples, especially if you call them on a weekday and explain to them what you are trying to accomplish. both shops have a good website. the other source i would recommend is a kite shop, as they will have tyvek and other lightweight fabrics. another thing you could use from the outdoor fabric stores or camping stores is silicone seam sealer, dries clear, flows fairly well, yet will peel off nonporous surfaces, like playmobil. it comes in small tubes that ooze out too much sealer, but it can be put into a syringe for more accurate application. i think it flows better than silicone caulking.
kaethe
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I'm thinking of replacing the various ripped sails on my ships. I don't them because they're unrealistic.
¿Is this a 4444 hull? I patched mine using spare/scrap material from a Large Pirate Ship (set #429Ø) using techniques modified from “The Arts of the Sailor: Knotting, Splicing and Ropework” by Hervey Garrett SMITH…